REWIEW
At a reading Paul gave at City Lights in San Francisco for the journal Left Curve, which I edit, he invited me to come with him to Kosovo in June. I had no idea what to expect. As it turned out, the trip etched vivid, indelible images and impressions into my mind, along with a deep admiration for Paul's selfless dedication to the cause of the Romani people.
Paul picked me up at Prague airport on June 3 with a van that had been donated for his humanitarian work. We left for Kosovo as soon as I got off the plane, driving non-stop for 25 straight hours through the Czech Republic, Austria, Slovenia, Croatia and down the winding, often treacherous, road of the Dalmatian coast to Dubrovnik, where we stayed only one night. We took off again the following evening, driving into the full moon-lit night through Montenegro.
After an attempted night's rest by the edge of a bay, interrupted by two Montenegrin cops who got in and out of the van and tinkered with the radio to relieve their boredom from stopping and checking the few cars that drove by, we finally descended from the mountains of Montenegro into the smog-filled valley of Kosovo by the middle of the following day. Our descent down the largely dirt road was still pock-marked by bomb craters and periodically littered with burned out, rusted husks of passenger buses. The charred, twisted, metal skeletons lay as mute, grim sentinels to the returning Albanians' vengeance extracted against the fleeing Serbs and Roma after the end of the NATO war.
By early evening, we finally arrived at the home of the Romani family where we were to stay in the village of Preoce. As we drove over the bumpy dirt road of the village, past a muddy, cooper-colored stagnant stream filled with junk and garbage, I could see people stopping and staring at the strange sight of a big American van in their Gypsy village. Very soon, several dozen adults and many more children began to run alongside the van with a growing crescendo of, "Mr. Paul! Mr. Paul! Mr. Paul!," escorting us the final few hundred meters ofour journey. It was a spontaneous, heartwarming welcome such as I had never experienced. When Paul got out of the van, he began to hand out vitamin C candies to the many children that had gathered all around him. The sight of the scrubby, many barefooted, poorly dressed children with glowing, jubilant faces, would dissolve the coldest, western cynic's heart.
We were escorted into the living room of the family with whom we would stay as dozens of people crowded in. After Paul handed out candy to the children, he began to hand out photographs of people present whose pictures he had taken during his stay last year. Soon afterward, a demure young woman came up to Paul, stood in front of him and in silence, with downcast eyes, extended her forearms with upturned palms horizontal to the floor a few inches from Paul's waist. Without a word being exchanged, Paul placed his hands over hers, without touching, and she began to move her palms slowly, back and forth, for several seconds. Paul moved his hands in synchrony with hers. Then she repeated the same process with me. The young woman's ritual was a moving, wordless moment partaking of a universal language of the body that existed prior to words or thought, a form of communication that still resides somewhere deep within all of us, despite the fact such expressions had long ago been banished from our civilized lives.
I stayed in Kosovo only for another week, though I wish I could have stayed longer. During that time, Paul placed himself entirely at the service of his hosts and many Romani families throughout Kosovo. I saw him daily, tirelessly, drive people for hours to visit relatives, reunite families who had not seen each other for years, take people to hospitals, meetings, celebrations, buy food and supplies, patiently listen to and record their all too often tragic lives, as well as bring their plight to the indifferent attention of relief agencies. We would also play chess, play pool, relax and exchange tidbits about the world, our lives and families. His bearing was always solid, real, human, respectful and forthright, with no condescension. And all this was done in an atmosphere of constant potential danger. For example, once we stopped at a Serb restaurant and it so happened that there were two UN cops from the United States at the next table. These cops told Paul that Kosovo was still a dangerous place. "There have been 837 murders just in this area since the war," one cop said, waving his hand in a circle, "and no one has been prosecuted. Be careful, guy, everyone I've known here who had a cocky attitude and thought they could take care of themselves, I eventually found shot dead."
The book that you hold in your hands is a unique book, a living testimonial to a contemporary tragedy (unfortunately hardly the only one in our world today) by a man dedicated to using his ability for others, and whom I had the privilege to get to know and see at work.
Csaba Polony